Good luck. The lining material shall extend not less than 3 inches (76 mm) beyond or around the rough jambs and not less than 3 inches (76 mm) above finished thresholds. Portions of it seem solid, but there are spots that have crumbled away with minimal coaxing. The first mud layer need not be as thick as the top layer. You can reinforce the curb mud layer by embedding an “L” shaped piece of wire mesh into this second mud layer. I was thinking of adding a waterproof material like Hydro Ban or Redgard on top of the mortar pre-slope floor and was wondering what you think of that? David. After you do this with your first tile, lift it back up, and check to ensure there is 80–90% thinset coverage on the back of the tile. Wall backer board installed (no fasteners through bottom portion of backer board that could puncture the shower liner. Obviously the best fix would be to bust it up and start over, but if most of it is stable and solid, you could likely get away with removing anything loose and patching it with additional mortar mixed with latex admixture instead of water. Hope that helps more than confuses. I suspect if there is no slope on the shower surface, the first layer of mortar was not sloped either. The total thickness of the main slab (non recessed area) will be 6″ (includes 2″ rigid insulation – R10 & 12mil vapor barrier). The first thing to understand about working with thinset mortar is that there are different types of thinsets for different jobs, and the varying types have varying drying times. This is not a good idea as any passed water stopped by the liner will tend to pool and not move toward the drain. 3. Do not cut the shower line at the corners or as it passes over the curb. You may need to check with your local inspector to ensure testing after your mortar bed is installed is acceptable. Let the mortar bed layer cure, then apply tile with an appropriate (shower approved) thinset. I think you plan is sound, but I would flood test the shower pan prior to moving forward to ensure the fiberglass pan is still functional. I’ve seen this point made, for instance, with people who are doing the side walls of the shower and propose to use both tar paper (under the cement board) and red gard (over the cement board). The slope of this layer allows the shower liner to drain to the weep holes of the drain. This will all be done with a delicate pull to screed the fresh new mortar off, but keep everything on plane. Given me reason to pause my project and consider next moves. The bottom edge of the tile backer board is gapped above the horizontal portion of the shower liner. Let the patch dry (quicker with thinset) and you should be ready to tile. Refer to any manufacturer’s recommendations for mixing your specific grout. I haven’t gotten all the old tile out yet and lack the whole floor On the wall where the tile was coming off, it’d been getting wet there for a while it looks like, water damage, plus I’ve got damage from carpenter ants. I’m going to follow your site step-by-step when I working on my shower later this week. Also how would a bench be handled? They tend to cost several times more than a traditional mud shower pan with a shower liner. Water that runs down the shower wall hits the shower pan and moves toward the drain. …I’ll keep going. If the surface is stable and relatively flat, you should be OK. Gary, I’ve watched quite a few videos and found your instructions on this site more helpful than anything I’ve watched. So I will be installing a simple one direction slop albeit a long one. Due to sever weather in many states, please call for up to date hours and closures Please visit the store locator page for the most up-to-date contact information. Caulk the corner joint with caulk. What type of mortar did you use on the layer above the liner? A grout float is a flat rubber or silicone tool with a flexible edge, similar to a spatula. The substrate (or subfloor) is the ground, whether it’s made of plywood or cement. If you embed the bottom edge of the backer board into the top mud layer, be sure to gap the bottom edge of the backer board above the shower liner to avoid mechanical damage to the shower liner. But my mind is not at peace. Is that some type of sealer? Lay the tile next to the drain edge to check height. A properly built concrete shower pan will weight several hundred pounds once complete, and should be built on a foundation capable of supporting it. 3M ScotchBlue 1.88 in. Let’s start with your last question first – mastic vs. thin-set.
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